Johya · The Emerald Notebook

Emerald on Silver: The Value of Handcrafted Colombian Jewelry

Setting an emerald in silver isn't a cheap compromise. It's a logical choice that prioritizes the stone. Explanations, quality, and care.
  • By Vincent Renault
  • ·
  • Reading · 6 min
  • ·
  • Updated June 2026

Silver earrings set with Colombian emeralds
Silver earrings set with Colombian emeralds, handcrafted in Colombia.
In Brief

Setting an emerald in silver is a smart choice when you want a genuine gemstone without breaking the bank on the metal. 925 silver costs a fraction of the price of gold, which means most of your investment goes toward the emerald itself.

This setting is particularly well-suited for emeralds of medium to good quality, whose color stands out beautifully against the bright luster of silver. Silver is also the traditional metal used in Colombian craftsmanship, where the stones are set close to where they are mined.

In the jewelry market, silver has an unfair reputation as a “poor-quality metal.” Yet when it comes to emeralds, it is often the smartest choice.

Most jewelers set emeralds in gold and present silver as an entry-level option. The reality is more nuanced: the choice of metal depends on the stone, the budget, and the intended use. For many emeralds, silver is a logical choice, not a compromise. Here’s why.


01

Why Set an Emerald in Silver?

The main reason is financial, but not in a negative sense. In a piece of jewelry set with a gemstone, the value lies in the stone, not the metal. One gram of 18-karat gold costs several dozen euros; one gram of 925 silver costs just over one euro.

In practical terms, given the same total budget, this allows you to allocate more money to the emerald and less to the setting. For a stone purchased primarily for its color and authenticity, this is the right balance. The setting plays its role—securing and showcasing the stone—without taking up a disproportionate share of the budget.

Aesthetically speaking, the cool, clear luster of silver brings out the green of the emerald, especially in stones with a slightly bluish green hue. The contrast is sharp and luminous.


02

Silver or Gold: Which to Choose

Neither metal is better in absolute terms. The right choice depends on the stone and its intended use.

Criterion 925 Silver 18-karat gold
Cost of the metal Very accessible High
Rendered on green A cool sheen that brings out the color Heat that softens the color
Interview Rusts; clean regularly Does not oxidize
Suitable for Average to good quality, everyday use Fine to Exceptional Gemstones, Heritage
Resale value of the metal Low Significant

In short: for an exceptional emerald meant to be passed down through generations, gold is the right choice. For a beautiful stone of standard quality, worn and enjoyed every day, silver is a logical and sensible choice.


03

Emerald-quality stones suitable for silver

Silver pairs particularly well with emeralds of average to good quality—those with a rich, pleasing color and visible natural inclusions, but not an excessive number of them. These stones make up the bulk of the actual market, far removed from the exceptional pieces found at auctions.

This segment is often neglected by traditional jewelers, who prefer to overprice perfect stones set in gold. Yet a good-quality emerald with a vivid green color, set in silver, makes for an authentic and affordable piece of jewelry—featuring a genuine gemstone rather than an imitation or a synthetic stone.

Keep in mind

“Average quality” does not mean “a poor-quality stone.” It refers to a natural emerald with its color and pattern of inclusions—the very hallmark of an emerald. In fact, a stone with no inclusions at all should raise suspicion: it is often a sign that the stone is synthetic.


04

Colombian Craftsmanship: Working with Stone Close to the Land

Handcrafted silver rings and earrings featuring Colombian emeralds
Rings and earrings handcrafted in Colombia from silver and local emeralds.

In Colombia, the world’s leading producer of emeralds by value, silver is the traditional metal used in jewelry set with local gemstones. Artisanal workshops, often located near the mining areas of Boyacá, set emeralds using techniques passed down through local traditions.

This craft has a practical benefit: the stone is set near where it was mined, by artisans who are familiar with it. The result is a cohesive piece of jewelry, in which the Colombian emerald remains in its original context right up to the setting. The pieces presented here—silver earrings and rings set with emeralds of medium to good quality—are representative of this craft.


05

Caring for Emerald Jewelry Set in Silver

Emerald jewelry set in silver requires two-fold care, as both materials have their own specific requirements.

Silver oxidizes when it comes into contact with air and skin; it turns black over time. Gently cleaning it with a special silver-cleaning cloth is enough to restore its shine. Avoid harsh chemicals, which can also damage the stone.

Emeralds are fragile: they have decent hardness but are susceptible to impact due to their inclusions. Avoid at all costs: ultrasonic cleaners, steam, direct impacts, and household cleaning products. Simply rinsing the stone under lukewarm water with a soft brush will clean it safely. Remove your jewelry before exercising, cleaning, or showering.


06

Our most common questions

Is an emerald set in silver considered a lower-quality piece of jewelry?

No. The metal says nothing about the quality of the stone. A genuine, high-quality emerald set in silver is better than a mediocre or synthetic stone set in gold. Silver simply allows you to focus your budget on the stone rather than on the metal.

Does silver damage emeralds?

No, silver has no harmful effect on emeralds. The only thing to keep in mind is maintenance: silver oxidizes and needs to be cleaned, but only with mild products so as not to damage the stone. The two materials can be combined in jewelry without any problems.

What quality of emerald should you choose for a piece of silver jewelry?

An emerald of average to good quality is the perfect match for silver: rich color, with natural inclusions that are visible but not distracting. It strikes a good balance between authenticity and price. Setting exceptional stones in gold settings makes more sense from a heritage perspective.

Why is silver used in Colombian crafts?

Silver is the traditional metal used in Colombian jewelry set with local gemstones. More affordable than gold, it allows the country’s emeralds to be set close to where they are mined, in workshops near the mining areas of Boyacá. This craft is deeply rooted in the local region.

How do you clean a silver and emerald ring?

Clean the silver with a special silver-cleaning cloth to remove tarnish. For the gemstone, simply rinse it under lukewarm water with a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, steam, and chemicals at all costs, as they will damage the emerald. Remove the jewelry before engaging in any strenuous activity or coming into contact with hot water.

Source cited. For information on the physical properties and sensitivity of emeralds, see the Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) care guidelines for emeralds.


A Documented Emerald: From Its Origins to the Stone.

At Johya, every gemstone is sourced directly from Colombia and comes with its full traceability information: origin, dealer, and certificate. Learn more about our approach.
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